Blog Archive

Saturday, March 10, 2012

SAFETY TIPS FOR USING HAND TOOLS



The following safety tips should be kept in mind whenever you are working with hand tools:
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Always pull a wrench toward you for best control and safety. Never push a wrench.
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Keep wrenches and all hand tools clean to help prevent rust and to allow for a better, firmer grip.
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Always use a 6-point socket or a box-end wrench to break loose a tight bolt or nut.
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Use a box-end wrench for torque and an open-end wrench for speed.
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Never use a pipe extension or other type of “cheater bar on a wrench or ratchet handle. If more force is required, use a larger tool or use penetrating oil and/or heat on the fastener. (If heat is used to remove a fastener, always replace it with a new part.)
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Always use the proper tool for the job. If a specialized tool is required, use the proper tool and do not try to use another tool improperly.
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Never expose any tool to excessive heat. High temperatures can reduce the strength (“draw the temper”) of metal tools.
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Never use a hammer on any wrench or socket handle unless you are using a special “staking face” wrench designed to be used with a hammer.
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Replace any tools that are damaged or worn.


HAND TOOL MAINTENANCE



Most hand tools are constructed of rust-resistant metals but they can still rust or corrode if not properly maintained. For best results and long tool life, the following steps should be taken:
*Clean each tool before placing it back into the tool box.
*Keep tools separated. Moisture on metal tools will start to rust more readily if the tools are in contact with another metal tool.


*Line the drawers of the tool box with a material that will prevent the tools from moving as the drawers are opened and closed. This helps to quickly locate the proper tool and size.
*Release the tension on all “clicker-type” torque wrenches.
*Keep the tool box secure.

Need to Borrow a Tool More Than Twice? Buy It!





Most service technicians agree that it is okay for a beginning technician to borrow a tool occasionally. However, if a tool has to be borrowed more than twice, then be sure to purchase it as soon as possible. Also, whenever a tool is borrowed, be sure that you clean the tool and let the technician you borrowed the tool from know that you are returning the tool. These actions will help in any future dealings with other technicians.


“Hide Those from the Boss”



“Hide Those from the Boss”  
An apprentice technician started working for a dealership and put his top tool box on a workbench. Another technician observed that, along with a complete set of good-quality tools, the box contained several adjustable wrenches. The more experienced technician said, “Hide those from the boss.” If any adjustable wrench is used on a bolt or nut, the movable jaw often moves or loosens and starts to round the head of the fastener. If the head of the bolt or nut becomes rounded, it becomes that much more difficult to remove.

BASIC HAND TOOL LIST






TOOL SETS AND ACCESSORIES



A beginning service tech may wish to start with a small set of tools before spending money on an expensive, extensive tool box.
A typical beginning technician tool set that includes the basic tools to get started.


A typical large tool box, showing just one of many drawers.

ELECTRICAL HAND TOOLS




Test Lights  Are used to test for electricity. A typical test light consists of a clear plastic screwdriver-like handle that contains
a light bulb.


A wire is attached to a terminal of the bulb, which is connected
to a clean metal part of the vehicle. The other end attaches
to a point that can be used to test for electricity at a connector or wire.

When there is power and a good connection, the light bulb lights.
A typical 12-volt test light.
Soldering Guns
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Electric soldering gun  This type of soldering gun is usually powered by 110-volt AC and often has two power settings expressed in watts.
An electric soldering gun used to make electrical repairs. Soldering guns are sold by the wattage rating. The higher the wattage, the greater amount of heat treated. Most solder guns used for automotive electrical work usually fall within the 60- to 160-watt range.
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Electric soldering pencil  This type is less expensive and creates less heat than an electric soldering gun. A typical electric soldering pencil (iron) creates 30 to 60 watts of heat, suitable for soldering smaller wires and connections.
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Butane-powered soldering iron  Is portable and very useful for automotive service work because an electrical cord is not needed. Butane powered irons produce about 60 watts of heat.
Most service techs who do electrical-related work should have:
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  • Wire cutters 


  • *
  • Wire crimpers 
  • *
  • Wire strippers 
  • *
  • Heat gun 
A digital multimeter, abbreviated DMM, is necessary for electrical diagnosis and trouble shooting. It is usually capable of measuring the following units of electricity:
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  • DC Volts 
  • *
  • AC Volts 
  • Ohms
  • Amperes



SEAL DRIVERS AND PULLERS




Seal Pullers  Grease seals are located on many components, including brake rotors, transmission housings, and differentials.
A seal puller is used to properly remove grease seals.


A seal puller being used to remove a seal from a rear axle.

HACKSAWS




A hacksaw is used to cut metals, such as steel, aluminum, brass, or copper. The cutting blade of a hacksaw is replaceable and the sharpness and number of teeth can be varied to meet the needs of the job.

Use 14 or 18 teeth per inch (tpi) for cutting plaster or soft metals, such as aluminum and copper. 24 or 32 teeth per inch for steel or pipe.

A hacksaw cuts while the blade is pushed in the forward direction, pressure should be released as the blade is pulled rearward before repeating the cutting operation.


Safe Use of Hacksaws  Check that the hacksaw is equipped with the correct blade for the job and the teeth are pointed away from the handle. move the hacksaw slowly away from you, lift slightly and return for another cut.
A typical hacksaw that is used to cut metal. If cutting sheet metal or thin objects, a blade with more teeth should be used.

Seal Drivers  A seal driver
can be plastic or metal,
usually aluminum.

It is used to seat the outer lip
of a grease seal in the grease seal pocket.

A seal is usually driven into position using a plastic mallet and seal driver that is the same size as the outside diameter of the grease seal retainer.
A seal driver or installer is usually plastic and is designed to seat the seal.


Use a Binder Clip



A binder clip (size 1-1/4 inches wide) is used by wise technicians to help keep fender covers in place. Binder clips are found at office supply stores.


A binder clip being used to keep a fender cover from falling.


The Valve Grinding Compound Trick



Apply a small amount of valve grinding compound to a Phillips or Torx screw or bolt head. The gritty valve grinding compound “grips” the screwdriver or tool bit and prevents the tool from slipping up and out of the screw head. Valve grinding compound is available in a tube from most automotive parts stores.

It Just Takes a Second



Whenever removing any automotive component, it is wise to screw the bolts back into the holes a couple of threads by hand. This ensures that the right bolt will be used in its original location when the component or part is put back on the vehicle. Often, the same diameter of fastener is used on a component, but the length of the bolt may vary. Spending just a couple of seconds to put the bolts and nuts back where they belong when the part is removed can save a lot of time when the part is being reinstalled. Besides making certain that the right fastener is being installed in the right place, this method helps prevent bolts and nuts from getting lost or kicked away. How much time have you wasted looking for that lost bolt or nut?

REMOVERS




Removers are tools used to remove damaged fasteners. They are not normally needed during routine service unless the fastener is corroded, broken or damaged.

Rusted and corroded fasteners should be sprayed with penetrating oil, a low viscosity oil designed to flow between the threads of a fastener or other small separations between parts.


Common penetrating oil products include WD-40  ,   Kroil,
and CRC 5-56.
CAUTION:  Do not use penetrating oil as lubricating oil. It is volatile and will evaporate after usage, leaving little lubricant protection behind.

Over time, rust and corrosion can cause the threads of the fastener to be attached to the nut or casting making it difficult to remove.  Several special tools can be used to remove damaged fasteners, depending on the type of damage. 

Damaged Heads  If the bolt head or a nut becomes damaged or rounded, two special tools can be used.
Stud remover  Grips the part above the surface and uses a cam or wedge to grip the stud as it is rotated by a ratchet or breaker bar.
A stud remover uses an offset serrated wheel to grasp the stud so it will be rotated when a ratchet or breaker bar is used to rotate the assembly.
Nut splitter  A nut splitter works by splitting the nut from the bolt. Insert the cutter against a flat of the nut and tighten the threaded bolt. The nut will split away, and can be removed.
A nut splitter is used to split a nut that cannot be removed. After the nut has been split, a chisel is used to remove the nut.
CAUTION:  Do not rotate the entire nut splitter or damage to the cutting  wedge will occur. 
Broken Bolts, Studs, or Screws  Can occur even with, or below the surface, making stud removal tools impossible to use. Bolt extractors are commonly called “easy outs.” Constructed of hardened steel with flutes or edges ground in the opposite direction of most threads.
A hole is drilled in a broken bolt. The extractor is inserted and rotated counter-clockwise with a wrench.
As the extractor rotates, the grooves grip tighter into the wall of the hole drilled in the broken bolt.
As a result, extractors are capable of removing most broken bolts.
Set of bolt extractors, commonly called easy outs.
NOTE:  Always select the largest extractor that can be used to help avoid the possibility of breaking the extractor while trying to remove the bolt.
I Broke Off an Easy Out—Now What?
An extractor (easy out) is hardened steel and removing this and the broken bolt is now a job for a professional machine shop. The part, which could be as large as an engine block, needs to be removed from the vehicle and taken to a machine shop that is equipped to handle this type of job. One method involves using an electrical discharge machine (EDM). An EDM uses a high amperage electrical current to produce thousands of arcs between the electrode and the broken tool. The part is submerged in a nonconducting liquid and each tiny spark vaporizes a small piece of the broken tool.
The Wax Trick
Many times rusted fasteners can be removed by using heat to expand the metal and break the rust bond between the fastener and the nut or casting. Many technicians heat the fastener using a torch and then apply paraffin wax or a candle to the heated fastener. See Figure 9–40. The wax will melt and as the part cools, will draw the liquid wax down between the threads. After allowing the part to cool, attempt to remove the fastener. It will often be removed without any trouble.
Removing plugs or bolts is easier if the plug is first heated to cherry red color, using a torch, and then applying wax. During cooling, the wax flows in between the threads, making it easier to remove.

PUNCHES AND CHISELS



Punches  A punch is a small diameter steel rod with a smaller diameter ground at one end. It is used to drive a pin out that is used to retain two components.
A punch used to drive pins from assembled components. This type of punch is also called a pin punch. 


Punches are measured across the diameter of the machined end. Sizes include 1/16 inch, 1/8 inch, 3/16 inch, and 1/4 inch.
Chisels  A chisel has a straight, sharp cutting end used for cutting off rivets or to separate two pieces of an assembly. The most common design for automotive service work is a cold chisel.
Safe Use of Punches and Chisels  Always wear eye protection when using a punch or a chisel. Hardened steel is brittle and parts of the punch could fly off and cause serious personal injury.
Warning stamped in the side of a punch warning that goggles should be worn when using this tool. Always follow safety warnings.
Punches and chisels can also have the top rounded off, which is called “mushroomed.” This material must be ground off to help avoid the possibility that the overhanging material is loosened and becomes airborne during use. 
Use a grinder or a file to remove the mushroom material on the end of a punch or chisel.

CUTTERS




Snips  Service techs are often asked to fabricate sheet metal brackets or heat shields and need to use one or more types of cutters available.

The simplest is called tin snips, which are designed to make straight cuts in materials such as sheet steel, aluminum, or even fabric.

A variation is called aviation tin snips. There are three designs, one to cut straight (straight cut aviation snip), one to cut left (offset left aviation snip), and one to cut right (offset right aviation snip).



Tin snips are used to cut thin sheets of metal or carpet.
Utility Knife  Using a replaceable blade a utility knife cuts a variety of materials such as carpet, plastic, wood, and paper products.
A utility knife uses replaceable blades and is used to cut carpet and other materials.
Safe Use of Cutters  When using cutters, wear eye protection or a face shield to guard against metal pieces ejected during the cut. Always follow recommended procedures.